In an evolving culinary landscape that seems to favor the anti-restaurant: pop-ups, food trucks, and underground dining groups, Uva Enoteca in San Francisco’s ambiguously hip Lower Haight neighborhood remains steadfast in its execution of perfect plates and inviting ambiance. On a recent evening circa 10:00 pm, convivial conversation ensued between the bartender (pouring Italian wine Quartino style), a neighborhood regular (who also tends bar at the Toronado, the famed beer mecca across the street) and two women out for a post-yoga bite, all seated on stools at the marble bar. In the back dining area date-nighty couples gazed longingly over perfectly blistered pizzas, eggplant caponata with tangy caper berries, salumi, and succulent wild boar ragu. Uva Enoteca co-owner Boris Nemchenok is a Batali disciple and sweet Uva pays homage to his teacher while exhibiting a West Coast lean that says it’s our attitudes that should be checked at the door and our coats we can carry to the table.
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